Tip #1 Improve your 1st/2nd Shift Fork Adjustment
If you are not getting good results during your
shift fork adjustments, here are some things to consider. In approximately
Volkswagen started producing 1-2 sliders which were 25mm wide instead of the
previous 26mm type. They also added .50mm more space
on either side of the center detent depression on the 1-2 shift rails, thus
producing 1mm greater travel. This made up for the 1 mm less
sleeve thickness and resulted in more shifter throw and a more positive shift.
This updated shift rail can be identified by a large groove on the hockey stick
end of the rail. The first 25mm wide sleeves found in US production can be identified by a single
groove down the
center of the reverse teeth (mid 66). From 67-71 the sliders will have 2
grooves on the tips of the reverse teeth and continue to be 25 mm wide. The 1-2
shift rails with the correct detent layout for 25mm sliders are
available from Long Enterprises. Order part# 113 311 557B.
Tech Tip #2 Synchros:
110° vs 120° Face Angles
Question: "What is the difference
between synchros with the 3 notches on the side (i.e. 113 311 269B and 113 311
295D) and the ones without (i.e. 113 311 269A and 113 311 295A)?
Answer: The short answer is the 113
311 269B and 113 311 295D synchros with three notches on the sides have
120° face angles and the 113 311 269A and 113 311 295A (no notches)
have 110° face angles.
Let me explain... The 113 311 269B and 113 311 295D have synchronizer teeth
with 120° degree face angles. When these synchros were first introduced the
face angles on the engagement teeth of the sliders were also changed to 120°. The
additional 10° more gradual angle provided improved shifting. The first 1-2 slider with 120°
on the 2nd gear side engagement teeth was introduced in late 1971. This
1-2 slider can be identified
by an annular groove on the shoulder next to the shift fork slot and by 2 small
grooves on the tips of the reverse teeth. It has 120° angles on the 2nd gear side only
113 311 269B (120°) on 2nd gear and a 113 311 269A (110°) on
1st gear. The
113 311 255C 1-2 slider (1972-75, 5mm wide shift fork style), requires this same synchro
arrangement with a 113 311 269A on 1st and a 113 311 269B on 2nd gear.
The first 3-4 slider with 120° face angles on
the engagement teeth was introduced at the same time (late 1971) and can be
identified by two annular grooves, one on either side of the shift fork slot.
This 3-4 slider requires a 113 311 295D synchro (120°) on both
3rd and 4th gears. The 002 311 315 3-4 slider (72-75,
5mm wide shift fork slot style) uses the 113 311 295D synchro on 3rd
and 4th also. If this all seems a bit confusing consider ordering one of
our Rebuild Kits where the correct synchros are already included.
One word of caution, for those of you who like to use used
synchros over again....if you happen to put a 113 311 269 (narrow shift
plate or "key" slots, 1st gear only in early 002 buses) on 2nd, the
gear box will grind so bad it'll make you think you didn't put a synchro in at
Tip #3 Gear Ratio Formula:
*USE THESE GEAR RATIO FORMULAS TO HELP MAKE YOUR DECISION ON THE RATIOS YOU
To calculate MPH:
RPM X TIRE HEIGHT
GEAR RATIO X RING & PINION X 336
To calculate RPM: MPH
X GEAR RATIO X RING & PINION X 336 =
RPM TIRE HEIGHT
to do all the individual multiplication functions first before
dividing the numerator (top value) by the denominator (bottom
value). Use this formula for each of the
forward gears. This will also allow you to produce a very useful
Tech Tip #4
Do I have early or late synchros?
Question: How can I tell if I have early or late
synchros in my swing axle trans?
Answer: If you have early synchros your 1st gear synchro
will only fit on 1st. If that is the case, then 2nd,
3rd, and 4th gear synchros are all the same. If you have late
synchros then your 1st gear synchro, will fit on 2nd gear
and visa-versa. If that is the case then 3rd & 4th gear synchros are the
EARLY swing-axle trans
113 311 247A 1st gear synchro only, (smaller ID)
113 311 295A 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear synchro
LATE swing axle trans (1966-1968)
113 311 269A 1st & 2nd gear synchro
113 311 295A 3rd & 4th gear synchro
Note: Early first gears (61-63) with 11.75 mm wide gear teeth should not
be used in any kind of performance application. Try to use 1st gears with
13.5 mm wide gear teeth and corresponding wider 1st gear on the mainshaft. The
later gears (66-on) also have wider thrust surfaces on the ends which contact
the 1st/2nd clutch gear and are less prone to galling and failure. If you would
like to upgrade to these later style gears contact us and we can tell you what
Tech Tip #5 Upgrade your leaky
shift housing (nose cone)
If your transaxle is fitted with a 1966 or
earlier shift housing chances are you've experienced oil leaking from the area
where the shift lever (hockey stick) exits the front of the housing. Until
now there hasn't been any way to install an oil seal in the early housings as
the outer internal bushing is located all the way at the end thus leaving no
room for the type of bushing that carries a seal. We now have an extremely
high quality bushing that replaces the old split bushing at the outer end and
carries a seal! Order part # 001 301 209A
Also as long as you've got the shift housing off it's a good idea to perform a
simple factory modification. What's involved is removing a little bit of
metal from the baffle in front of the channel leading to the vent hole (in later
housings you can see that this area is opened up considerably). This can be done by cutting a
small (approx 1/2 inch) V shaped notch in the baffle thereby avoiding a pressure
build-up that cause an even a bigger oil leak out the vent
Tech Tip #6
For stock or performance transaxle rebuilds we recommend you
press off 3rd and 4th drive hubs (also known as synchro hubs or dog rings) and check for any signs of spinning. If
evidence of spinning is found both the gear and the drive hub will need to be
have only 3 sets of 3 "fat" drive teeth 120 degrees
apart, (the remaining 21 "skinny" teeth carrying no load).
If the "fat"
teeth look good with nice undercut or backcut tooth flanks,
green locktite and reinstall (see LE 180 VW Transaxle Rebuilders Course CD
for information on tooth geometry and other details on this procedure). For
performance or off road use, Long Enterprises can Tig weld drive hubs for
you. We then put the gear on a precision industrial honing machine to insure the
bore is true. Order LE 108 for new or excellent used replacement drive hubs.
Tech Tip #7
Do you have a 25 mm or
a 28 mm mainshaft?
ordering mainshaft bearings or Rebuild kits, measure the diameter of the mainshaft at
the location of the yellow arrow.
You will need to know if it is 25 mm or 28 mm. This will insure
you're getting the correct part. Note: The gearbox does not need to be
disassembled to do this. Simply remove the shift housing and measure the
diameter of the top shaft right next to the lock ring. If your mainshaft
has no lock ring on the front end but has a nut instead, it should be 25 mm.